CONSTRUCTION NOTES: FIBERGLAS BOXES
MATERIALS ARE:
ONE: 1/4 INCH PLYWOOD, standard 4x8 foot sheets, construction as opposed
to finish grade unless it is not planned to cover the sides in fabric,
which is normal practice, and keeps all of the wood out of sight.
TWO: FABRIC, normally Jute Burlap, which is dimensionally stable, can be
painted (water base) to any color, available at 60 (or more) inches wide,
and inexpensive. In addition to it's other good points, the thicker grades
are a nearly perfect foil to Fiberglas, which gets a little reflective
at very high frequencies. The combination of the two is as close to a
perfect/practical absorber as possible. Open cell foam plastics can be as
good or better, but are both expensive and delicate, and present a very
serious fire hazard in terms of fumes even when fireproofed.
THREE: FIBERGLAS, Corning 703 (3 pound) semi-rigid board or equivalent.
The Corning product is better at the low end than others, but also nearly
double the cost of competitive products. Since low frequency absorption
as such can be managed using polycylindrical diffusers in small numbers,
a case can be made for using less costly fiberglass products, but they
require that polys be used in the room.
CONSTRUCTION: Boxes are normally made at 4x8 feet to minimize cutting and
6 inches deep to provide adequate bass absorption. However: The actual
size of glass boards varies a little between manufacturers, so the
material in real use should be measured and boxes built to fit.
2x4 boards are usually 1/4 scant, so when inserted 2 wide and 2 high
(8 ea 3" boards) will fit neatly in a 4x8 foot O.D. 1/4" box touching
but not forced. Don't squeeze the boards!
Thickness is another matter as glass board won't compress, so it is
usually necessary to build the boxes at 6-1/2 inches depth to allow for
a 3 to 4 x 1/4" strip across the middle of the box front and back to
capture the internal board seams. Alternately, the boards take silicon
sealer/caulk very well and allow a 6" box. Either will prevent the
board's bowing out in the middle.
Box sides, top, and bottom are screwed to 2x2s at the corners (1-5/8"
wallboard screws), wrapped in chicken yard fencing or equivalent to
support the glass board, and all visible surfaces covered in Jute Burlap
cloth, both stapled to the 1/4 plywood. If the boxes are mounted
separately from each other and the Jute won't reach the back, small trim
on each side will conceal the problem, OR one can buy wider Jute.
Boxes can be hung with screen door hooks, picture hanging wire or what
not anchored to the top 2x2s.
Trimming the glass to allow the 2x2s is easily done with a big, cheap
scalloped edge bread knife. Long cuts, however, are not recommended
unless really needed, and it is well to keep in mind that acoustical
treatment is generally +/- 10% so filling the last few inches is a waste
of time and energy.
CONSTRUCTION NOTES: POLYCYLINDRICAL DIFFUSERS
MATERIALS ARE:
ONE: TEMPERED MASONITE, usually 1/8 inch as thicker is more difficult to
handle and requires more strength in frame construction. Pegboard can be
used but may fracture and has no advantages unless pegboard hooks are
needed for hanging cables and so forth.
TWO: 2X4 AND 2X2 inch lumber for an open mount OR 6x1 inch finish and
2x2s for a shadowbox. The lumber needs be reasonably straight, otherwise
select for appearance.
The purpose of the unit is to provide high end dispersion and low end
absorption in one device.
These ends are accomplished by suspending a sheet of Masonite by it's
vertical edges (only), bowed out about 6 inches between the vertical
sides of the mount, and free to vibrate at all points except the vertical
edges.
When Masonite is compressed between side boards at 46-1/2 inches, it
takes the shape of an ellipse, reflecting medium to high frequency
sound at all possible angles from 0 to 30 degrees, as an ellipse is
made up of parts of an infinite number of circles, as with the edge of
a football.
While 6" is not the only possible build-out, is a rational design as it
is reasonably inconspicuous, forms a good ellipse, and exerts manageable
side forces on the mount. These forces become excessive at lower figures,
although they lessen as the Masonite warps to form, and at about one
foot the panel starts to become a semi-circle, which yields poorer
diffusion, and probably less bass absorption.
PLACEMENT, MOUNTING, APPEARANCE: Although polys will work as dispersers
in any location and size, both are important to bass absorption.
Defining a corner as two walls at 90 degrees, bass collects in corners
as it compresses into them, so polys in or across corners yields maximum
absorption. Additionally, corners reflect multi phase comb filtered top
end, which sounds bad, and polys cure that as well as killing excess bass.
Still further, polys in corners appear to work at lower frequencies than
when wall mounted, provided only that the walls forming the corner be
(at least) as long as the polys' maximum diagonal, which makes ceiling
to wall installation attractive as short polys can be mounted over the
length of a wall at the ceiling line. Known effective.
Mounting as such can be done by simply beveling 2x2s, nailing them onto
a wall and squeezing Masonite between them, but it is usually better to
make them removable by hanging them. It is very important to keep the
Masonite clear bottom and top, and allow generous air flow behind it,
as either done wrong will partially cripple bass absorption.
Masonite sheets in polys can be painted, wallpapered, cloth covered, and
so forth, but don't add serious weight or thickness.
TRIVIA: A full 4x8 sheet, wall mounted, calculates to 63 Hz. Hum is 60
or 120, but rumble in big rooms goes much lower, so if it is present
(as with being next to trains) they will require big units. 12x12
contiguous will absorb to 33 Hz, 12x14 to 21. Lowest frequency for a
room can be calculated as 1/2 1130/longest dimension. 60 feet, 9.42 Hz.
Masonite hung top and bottom potbellies within a year. Ugly, and so not
reccomended.
If you want to see polys, look at bandshells and old stage theaters. They
are not a new idea, just neglected.
Selasa, 14 Juli 2009
CONSTRUCTION NOTES: FIBERGLAS BOXES
STUDIO BASICS IN BRIEF
Studio isolation depends on several things, some obvious, some not.
To state the first obvious factor, instruments are directional,
mikes are directional, and instrument amplifiers are directional.
Again obviously, the directionality of these three can be used in an
intelligently designed setup to keep the sound of one instrument
out of another's mike.
The second gimmie is room treatment. There are three ways to go wrong
on this, and two of them are common.
The most prevalent treatment problem is the stuff used to deaden the
room. So many studios have put cheap carpet on every available surface
that it has come to be regarded as a good thing to do. In fact, it is
a terrible thing to do. Carpet, drapes, acoustical tile, and thin
Fiberglas all share the same characteristic. They don't absorb bass.
They do absorb top end. Some better than others. Carpet and drapes
absorb about one-fifth as well as Fiberglas, and are many times more
expensive. Cheap acoustical tile absorbs very well, but only in the
middle of the spectrum. Fiberglas and Sonex absorb to the maximum,
but except in suspended ceilings, thin fuzz drops dead below 400 to
500 HZ and Sonex is unthinkably expensive for ceilings.
So unless the studio walls are so flimsy as to vibrate with bass and
send it outside, the result of using a lot of thin studio treatment
is a working space that ranges from boomy at bass frequencies to an
absolute grave on top. The sound of the room is reflected in the
microphone isolation characteristics, with the low end sound falling
through every mike in the place, and a dry, sterile top end.
Needless to say, it's very hard for musicians to work in a room like
that as they can't hear each other bouncing off the walls. All boom,
no tinkle.
Overtreated, dead rooms are a frequent problem, and a near inevitable
result of using thin acoustical treatment, as too much of it is usually
laid on in an attempt to pull down the room bounce at medium
frequencies.
The third standard problem is, of course, insufficient treatment and a
room that is too live to yield adequate isolation.
Which brings up the subject of how much treatment is needed in a studio.
Interesting, as not only is there no simple answer, there has been
virtually no valid material published on the matter.
The difficulty here lies in the fact that the amount of treatment
for a studio varies, but not directly, with the size of the room, so
how much is a complex calculation. However, the result of the treatment
can be stated in reasonably simple terms, and the amount can be arrived
at by experiment.
First, the result. A vocalist needs a minimum of about 26 db isolation
on mike to get decent results, as normal limiting eats 10 to 12 db of
the available margin.
Other instruments should therefore die away by at least that much
before hitting the vocal mike.
Simple distance won't do it, as a performance room must be at least
somewhat live so the players can hear each other. Anechoic chambers are
out for recording.
If there is sound bouncing around in a room, the bounce will at some
point be as loud as the sound source that created it.
That point is called the critical distance, and the Dc of a sound
source is a statement of how far it travels in a room before it goes
constant volume. Dc varies with a number of factors including the
directionality of the source but, as rhythm section instruments have
about the same directionality as voice, a general treatment can be
made for rhythm and vocal isolation.
The treatment needs to yield 26 db or better of die off before the
source goes constant volume. Sound dies off by 6 db per distance
doubling until the Dc is reached, with the last figure a 3 db point.
Therefore, assuming a mike to mouth distance of six inches, 1ft=6db,
2ft=12db; 4ft=18db; 8ft=24db, and as the last figure adds only 3db,
a voice Dc of 16 feet adds 3 db more for 27 db of acoustical loss at
that figure.
You can live with less, as little as 10, but it's not quite
satisfactory. 12 is definitly OK for general work, and usually used,
but 16 feet is just bloody wonderful, as you can put a vocal anywhere
in the room, and allows the mixer to do anything he(she) wants instead
of the room's dictating all kinds of weird stuff to keep garbage out
of the mikes.
That's 16 acoustical feet, not straight line, and unless you have a
low live ceiling, pretty easy to set up.
To find the amount of treatment necessary for a given room, acoustical
math is handy if you have it, and available either in a book titled
SOUND SYSTEM ENGINEERING by Don and Caroline Davis published by Howard
W.Sams, or in the program on this site.
Otherwise, just measure the room's Dc for a human voice. This is done
by walking toward someone in the middle of the room while chanting one
one one one, test, oom, or whatever turns you on as long as it's
constant in volume and tone.
The listener will hear the talker at constant volume until the room's
Dc is reached, at which point the talker will become suddenly and
obviously louder.
Passing thru the Dc a few times in each direction will nail it down
pretty good, and the trick of using a voice for this is better than
it might seem at first blush. For one thing the equipment (none) is
readily available.
For another the system works in any language, and the results can be
'phoned in. Mostly,however, it checks the room at about 100 Hz, where
bad rooms go live, and yields remarkably accurate results as a result.
Clapping one's hands while looking wise and murmuring hmm and aha is
much more impressive, but as handclaps and the like normally trigger
the ear well up into the midrange, it's not uncommon to clap out a
room at one second and find that it's three or more at voice
frequencies.
Finally, it is a simple fact that rhythm instruments were designed
to work with the human voice, and it is rational to set up a room
around that centerpiece.
Studio design per se is dealt with in some detail elsewhere in these
texts but in passing it should be pointed out that isolation is
mostly a function of Dc, and getting a voice Dc of 12 to 16 feet in
a room with less than 10,000 cubic feet of volume produces a room
so dead as to be damn near impossible for musicians to play in.
Generally, small rooms have big problems and vice-versa.
Some less obvious isolation factors include proximity of sound
sources to walls and instrumental volume.
The first is easy. Don't build or set up a studio with instruments
within 4 to 5 feet of a wall. The wall will reinforce the sound
just like any theater back wall, and you'll hear it on every mike
in the room.
Taking the above one at time, room volume, in cubic feet, puts an
absolute limit on how much instrumental volume, in db/spl, the room
will hold without creating problems. This limitation can produce some
astonishing situations.
Some years ago, the writer tried to record an operatic soprano in a
livish 9000 cubic foot room. And failed. The lady produced so much
sound on her loud notes that she loaded the room, and every loud note
distorted the mike, as it heard her voice from three or four directions
at once. She turned a nice little studio into a horrible echo chamber.
The session was moved to a bigger room, worked fine, and the lesson
remembered.
There is probably a firm rule for ceiling height, but I haven't seen
it. So to make a rough estimate, for standard instruments and normal
seating, a live session studio should have a ceiling height in the area
of 14 to 20 feet. It does not follow that a low ceiling ruins the sound
but to get a reasonable volume of 12 thousand cubic feet or more, you
need a whole lot of floor space with a low ceiling.
Low ceilings work fine, but place a lower limit on the number of people
that can work in the room. Additionally, the room volume works against
total instrumental volume, so one can pack strings in like sardines,
but 20 brass or three 200 watt amps can be a disaster. The room volume
versus instrumental volume effect may account for the fact that small
garage studios seem to have less trouble than small basement studios.
THE ACOUSTICAL DESIGN OF RECORDING STUDIOS
THE ACOUSTICAL DESIGN OF RECORDING STUDIOS
When one considers that the recording industry has been building and
using studios for about 70 years, it is remarkable that so little basic
theory has been published on the subject. To be sure, there are plenty
of "here's how we did it" articles in print as well as a number of
"here's how to do it" examples to be found in books and magazines,
but none of these provide enough of the underlying design principles
to enable a reader to duplicate the performance of such studios unless
he also duplicates the studio. For that reason, while such publications
are interesting and even entertaining, they are of little use to a
studio owner who wants to improve an existing room or build a new one
in a space different from the exemplars given.
The situation grows even more extraordinary in light of the massive
amount of experimentation and research devoted to control rooms over
the past few years.
Those efforts have resulted in enough published material to allow a
studio to select from at least two demonstrably excellent generic
control room designs, both of which spring from the same clearly
expressed theoretical underpinning. While the general case design
will need some cleanup and tuning to achieve optimum results, a
studio owner can use the published theory to modify a given plan,
adapt it to his particular situation, and come up with a fundamentally
decent room. In short, we know how to build good control rooms.
We sure as hell don't know how to build good studios. In fairness,
there are some designers who appear to know something of the subject,
but they don't give away their stock in trade, so a studio owner is
faced with the problem of separating the good designers from the good
talkers. With the near future of his business at stake, that's a
serious problem, made worse by the fact that even very good acousticians
have been known to make very bad mistakes when dealing with recording
rooms.
As an example, the two worst studios the writer has ever encountered
were designed from scratch by a Phd named Sabin. (There were three of
them.) The rooms were retreated within a couple of months, but we
turned out some pretty marginal work in the meantime. Since this
happened in the city's premier recording facility, marginal was a bad
case of egg on face.
Doc Sabin was not at fault in that mess. In fact, nobody was. The whole
thing was a terrible mistake.
The mistake was to confuse a recording studio with a normal acoustical
envronment.
Acousticians ordinarily think of large rooms in terms of theaters and
auditoriums, which have a definite sound source feeding a definite
audience. That applies equally to control rooms, theaters, auditoriums,
and almost everything else acoustical designers get into.
It does not apply to studios, which are completely different from most
other rooms. A studio has any number of sources in the persons of the
musicians, and an audience comprised of those same players. Multiple
scattered sources, ditto listeners. Peculiar room.
Keeping strictly to acoustical performance, the primary function of a
recording studio is to provide adequate isolation between microphones
while allowing the players to hear each other as well as possible.
Acoustical isolation is by far the most often discussed of these two
areas, but since the parameters involved are addressable by acoustical
mathematics, producing satisfactory isolation levels is a fairly
straightforward process. All that's needed is a knowledge of what
constitutes adequate isolation and several pages of mathematical
computations. Happily enough, there is a way round that last item.
Treating a room for multidirectional listenability is a good deal more
difficult, as it is not a direct function of the room's global
characteristics and therefore cannot be treated mathematically. General
solutions are available, and they work nicely, but they have more to do
with old fashioned intuitive acoustics than with the glitzy new computer
aided stuff.
Among other things, this means that the merits of a suggested treatment
cannot be readily confirmed by punching up one's handy dandy number
cruncher.
Getting on with it, the specific design parameters are:
1: What is a reasonable isolation level and how much treatment is needed
to get it?
2: What constitutes acceptable listenability and how is that managed?
3: What's the catch? (There's a bear in every woods.) ((Sometimes several
bears.))
Item one. Acoustical isolation between instruments is a function of the
degree to which the sound of one dies away before getting to the next.
When the die off is inadequate the sound of one instrument falls through
the mike of the next and trashes it.
If it is excessive the musicians can't hear each other properly, which
makes group playing difficult and ruins section sound. Everything in the
real world is a compromise, and acoustical isolation is no exception.
The amount of acoustical attenuation for a given instrument in a room
depends on the room's global characteristics. As with any radiated
field, sound pressure levels diminish as the square of the distance
from the source. Double the distance, lose 6 Db SPL. The equation holds
for any distance in a perfectly dead room or out of doors.
In a normal room, however, the walls reflect some of the sound. Since the
source sound level diminishes with distance, at some point the reflections
from the walls will equal the source level. Beyond that point the sound
no longer dies away, and the level becomes constant at any further
distance. The distance at which this transition takes place is currently
called the Critical Distance. It has been called other things in other
centuries, as it's existence has been known for a very long time. It is
easy to observe, easy to measure, and a remarkably accurate indicator of
a room's acoustical performance.
The Critical Distance (Dc) of a sound source depends on the reflectivity
of the walls and how much wall surface the sound hits. As an example, a
firecracker hung on a string in the middle of a room produces a spherical
sound field which will bounce off all six walls of the room. Six, because
sound has no sense of direction, and can't tell a floor or ceiling from
any other surface. This spherical source is assigned a "Q" (figure of
merit) of 1, meaning it has no directionality at all. Hang the cracker
against a wall, and it radiates a hemispherical pattern. That's a Q of 2.
Halfway up the wall and in a corner it's a half hemisphere, and the Q is
4. On the floor and in a corner, Q =8. Q represents the beam width of the
sound source. The higher the number, the narrower the beam.
The narrower the beam, the less wall surface is struck by a source's
sound. Therefore, the higher the Q, the longer the Dc. And the higher
the surface reflectivity, the shorter the Dc.
It follows from the above that low Q instruments will have the shortest
Dc's, and the poorest isolation. As it happens, low Q describes both the
human voice and the entire rhythm section. A moment's thought will
explain that. Bass, piano, guitar and drums were used to accompany the
human voice for several centuries before mikes and such were invented,
and were designed to match it. They match quite well, which leaves us
with a kit of Q 2.5 instruments as the basis of isolation design.
The most difficult instrument in terms of isolation is the voice. Not
because it's so soft, but because of limiting. Unless a studio wants
to turn out 1940's records, there is no choice but to limit vocals,
and the limiter costs about 12 Db of isolation as it pulls up the
consonants in the singer's words. What this amounts to is that the vocal
channel should show something approaching minus 20 Db when the vocalist
is quiet; 12 db for limiting, and 10 to 14 to clear the consonants and
allow a little dynamic range for the singer. Since other instruments
work nicely with a clearance of 6 to 10Db adequate vocal isolation
becomes the criterion for acoustic design in studios.
Vocal isolation is made a little easier by the small size of the
instrument, which allows miking at a half foot without running into
serious proximity effects, and generally presents about 86 Db SPL on
mike. Hardly thunderous, but the peak level differences between voice
and the rhythm instruments are not as great as commonly assumed. It's
limiting up the minus 12 Db consonants that give rise to vocal iso
problems. Still, since other instruments can be 6Db or more over the
voice's 86 Db, the room characteristics have to lay for about 26 Db
of acoustical loss from a vocal to mike distance of six inches to any
other mike twenty acoustical feet away, keeping in mind that the 20
feet may simply be a few feet in front of the vocal mike. It is not a
straight line measurement.
The problem is made harder by a simple but nasty fact. A SOURCE GOES
CONSTANT VOLUME AT IT'S Dc, AND THE VOLUME IS THE SAME EVERYWHERE IN
THE ROOM. Distance beyond Dc makes no difference in fallthrough, and
directionality has no effect, except to mud up the fallthrough.
Dead flats don't work. Hyper cardioid mikes don't work. Nothing works.
The levels of the rhythm instruments have to fall about 26 Db before
going constant volume, or you can't work a vocal anywhere in the room.
Item one is 26 Db. More is nice, but getting much over 26 in a small
room involves so much treatment that the studio turns into an anechoic
chamber, with fuzz covering every wall.
Which brings up item two; listenability of the room.
Totally fuzzed walls return no sound to the players, who respond by
playing louder. And worse.
It's very difficult for a group of musicians to work in concert (pun
intentional) unless they can hear each other. Outdoors, with nothing
otherwise coming back to the players, stage monitors are used to supply
the sound of the group to the group. An engineer can use the studio
playback speakers for the same purpose, and it works surprisingly well,
but in both cases the players hear the mixer's balance, not their own.
They play in one balance and hear another, which creates some subtile
but nasty musical corruptions.
As an example, no mixer will let a solo ride at too low a level. It's
the mixer's job to maintain a proper balance, and mixers do their jobs.
So if a musician plays a tentative first solo, the mixer raises it's
level as needed, and it plays back in proper balance. After a few takes,
the soloist gets used to the idea that his solos will come out right no
matter what he does, and lays back on all of them. It's easier to play
soft. The mixer also adjusts to the situation, and bumps the level for
each solo. All this sounds pretty good at the time, but after a few days
both parties discover that the solos don't sound like solos. They sound
like lifted fills. That's because a solo is generally a high energy item,
and when a player lays back rather than putting out the energy, the solos
lack drive and intensity.
Technically speaking, this is a matter of harmonic content. When an
instrument is played hard or loud, the energy shows up as an increase
in harmonics, and the result is a loud sound. When not, not, and
artificially boosted soft solos just don't make it.
While this is one of the less obvious problems involved, musicians who
can't hear their overall sound well enough to maintain solo and section
balances during performance are very unlikely to play at their full
potential, and they need to hear themselves directly. That's especially
true if the mixer is tricking up the sound as it goes through the console
to the tape.
Since the usual studio setup points the musicians and their instruments
at the control room, the obvious (and normal) way to supply direct
feedback is to bounce the player's sound off the control room wall.
Control room walls are left reflective as a matter of conventional wisdom,
and are even somewhat optimized by stacking the musicians cases against
the wall under the control room window. The cases offer a fair degree of
dispersion to the strong boundary layer sound traveling along the floor
to the control room wall, and integrate it before reflecting it back to
the players. That won't work with a rug on the floor, but improves things
quite a lot otherwise.
Given that a primary function of the control wall is to supply a live
surface to the musicians, it can be made more effective by using some of
the techniques employed in the backs of control rooms. These involve
substituting RPGs for the stacked cases, retreating the wall for maximum
reflection, moving the control room window to the upright position, and
installing a reflector above the window angled to bounce even more sound
back to the rhythm section. The combination of flat and dispersed
reflections has been shown to be optimum for critical listening, and if
it's good enough for engineers, why not supply it to the people who are
doing the actual work in a studio?
In any case, the amount of acoustical treatment in a studio is limited
by the need to leave the major part of the control room wall reflective.
And there advantages to a live floor in allowing solid boundary layer
sound at the control wall, in addition to making it easier to move things
around in the studio.
The side walls are far less critical. Because of that, they are commonly
either left untreated or given some kind of uniform treatment. Neither
is a good idea.
Flat, straight walls have been known to be acoustically unacceptable for
centuries. That's partly because sound reflects off such walls as a flat
smack, which sounds bad, and partly because it bounces so strongly. If
the side walls are either untreated or evenly treated the sound will
ricochet around the room like a ball on a billiard table until it finds
an open mike to get into. That was the problem with Doc Sabins' room.
It is probably possible to control the results by putting an absorbent
flat behind every mike in the room, but it's a tedious process, and
interferes with player communication. Much better to clean up the bounce.
Since the villains in the piece are flat, evenly treated walls, the
obvious remedy lies in knobbing up the walls and installing absorptive
treatment in patches.
Both objectives can be accomplished by hanging live sided boxes filled
with Fiberglas on the walls. (See drawing.) Floor to ceiling treatment
is unnecessary, as mikes rarely point up. The boxes should start high
enough off the floor to clear chairs and other clutter leaned against
the wall, and will generally top out at eight or nine feet above the
floor.
A box with reflective sides will act as a disperser, and at a foot or
so deep will disperse down to about 550 Hz. Not ideal, but not bad,
and at a foot the boxes are pretty manageable. They are normally spaced
at three to six feet apart, leaving the walls reflective between them.
This presents a combination of dispersion, absorption and reflection to
both the musicians and the mikes, and cleans up the billiard ball
syndrome quite nicely while presenting an optimum listening environment
to the hard working types in the studio.
The back wall can be treated in the same way in small rooms, although
it is best to leave the back as live as possible, as reflections from
it give the players a sense of being in a room rather than working
with their backs to a vacuum.
In cases where a great deal of absorption is needed, the wall area
above eight feet and below about two can be totally treated without
ruining the generally live sound of the room, as the ear only needs
a little encouragement to think it's in a normal environment.
The ceiling is another matter, and needs be almost entirely dead,
because it is almost never high enough to establish a decent modes
structure. The standard literature lists acceptable room proportions
of up to two to one as an extreme case, and the vast majority of
ceilings are well over that. As always, the best way to deal with an
unsolvable problem is to eliminate it, and since a non-reflective
surface generates no modes structure one way or another, dead ceilings
are the norm in most studios.
The ceiling also presents the largest area available for serious
treatment, especially as it can be totally absorbent without making
a room sound dead. Short, yes. Dead, no.
Unless a ceiling is extremely low the ear ignores it, preferring to
take it's cues more or less horizontally.
It is critical that the ceiling treatment be acoustically flat in it's
absorption. Given an ordinary grid hung 16 inches below the structural
ceiling, flat response can be accomplished with 1-1/2 inch Fiberglas
ceiling panels or with thinner panels and a Fiberglas batt overlay.
It is wise to check manufacturer's literature for exact specifications,
as the low end absorption of the ceiling must extend far enough into
the bass range to avoid the common fault of acoustical treatment that
soaks out the top end of the room while leaving the low end live. That
kind of treatment results in a muddy room with terrible isolation probs
in terms of bass, floor tom, and bass drum.
The need for flat low end response applies to all room treatment unless
the studio has big windows or it's walls are so flimsy as to transmit or
absorb bass by vibrating to it. Even then, bass attenuation will seldom
exceed 30%, leaving 70% to be supplied by other means. While there are
any number of bass absorbing devices which can be built or purchased,
they are inconsistent in operation, inefficient except in corners, and
very difficult to analyze as to the number and size required.
On balance it's more practical to install the general treatment in such
way as to absorb uniformly from bass to cymbals.
Controlling high frequency reflections is easy, but bass absorption is
largely a matter of absorber depth, and it takes considerable thickness
to get flat down to 60 Hz. Hung ceilings manage it with thin panels and
the 16 inches between panels and the real ceiling, but a wall mounted
absorber needs a minimum depth of 6 inches for Fiberglas (703) board,
and a foot for glass wool.
DON'T USE THIN TREATMENT! Carpeting and drapes absorb 2 to 14% of bass
while soaking out 60 to 70% of the top end, yielding a room with no
presence and extreme boominess. Bad for playing, worse for recording.
At 70% efficiency, they also require an excessive amount of treatment
and wall area. Interestingly enough, both products cost far more than
proper acoustical materials, and are not necessarily more attractive.
By and large, Fiberglas in one form and another is probably the most
practical treatment available, and it can be covered in any number of
handsome fabrics or in Tectum if a durable wall is needed.
With the type and location of studio treatment in hand, we can finally
address the question of how much absorption is needed.
The following data are not hypothetical. The Dc figures were determined
during extensive reality testing of a newly written acoustical design
computer program.
The test method consisted of retro engineering a number of recording
studios, in each of which the writer had done some hundreds of sessions.
The majority of the studios were acceptable, a few were marginal, two
were bad, and two superb.
The object of the exercise was to find a common parameter that related
to actual studio performance, and the voice Dc proved to be a figure of
merit for isolation in properly treated rooms. Other correlations became
evident over several years of repeated computer runs on these and other
studios in an acoustics course taught by the author at a local college.
Designing for isolation is both simpler and more difficult than it first
appears. The simple part is very simple indeed, as voice Dc and therefore
isolation turns out to be function of the amount of absorption in a room
regardless of room size.
The absorption required for 26 Db of acoustical loss from 6 inches to 20
feet (a voice Dc of 11 1/2 feet) is about 2700 Sabins. Sounds easy.
If the practice were as straightforward as the theory, one could stuff
2700 square feet of Fiberglas into a studio and open for business without
further ado.
Unfortunately, what's wanted is 2700 Sabins of absorption, and the actual
amount of treatment for that figure can vary from less than 1500 to just
over 2500 depending on the size of the room. First bear in the woods.
The reason for a difference between actual treatment and effective
absorption is that the standard Sabin formula is linear, and absorption
in highly treated rooms is not.
In fact, when 80% of the wall surface absorbs at 1 Sabin per square foot,
the effective absorption of the treatment is doubled. There is a formula
for this effect, (Norris Eyring) which is reasonably accurate, but since
it involves the use of natural logarithms, it is tedious to use.
Second bear.
The third bear is the well-populated acoustical forest is the difficulty
of accurately assigning absorption values to various materials already
in the room. Most standard materials can be looked up in tables printed
for the purpose, but there are always a few things that aren't listed.
Additionally, it is very easy to mistake one kind of acoustical material
for another and come up with significant errors in calculations.
Calculations are a pain anyway, so it's best to circumvent the bears by
measuring the acoustical performance of the room.
There are several thoroughly scientific ways to do this, and any number
of manufacturers eager to sell equipment for the purpose, but as a
practical matter such measurements are of little or no use to the studio
owner. Cheap equipment yields cheap results, and the data gleaned from
upscale equipment require expert (and costly) interpretation.
In the first instance, the figures aren't completely trustworthy, and in
the second routinely repeating the tests will cost a fortune.
Following the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) rule, the writer prefers to
measure a room by determining it's voice Dc. The equipment costs nothing,
it takes about two minutes, and the results are more than accurate enough
for real world use.
Better still, being a simple-minded test, it reports simple-minded
figures with no interpretation, no ambiguity. Best of all, a Dc check
makes it's measurement at about 100 Hz, where improper treatments cause
a the majority of isolation problems.
Measuring a voice Dc is child's play provided one keeps in mind that the
purpose is to determine the global characteristics of the space. Toward
that end, it is essential to make the measurement in the acoustical
center of the room. Given normal treatment, that will be in the physical
center as well.
In cases where the absorption is considerably greater on one wall than
another, the acoustical center will have to be found.
Again, dead easy. Using the incredibly sensitive instruments found on
either side of the human head, one sidesteps away from one wall toward
another until the reflected sound from the two are equal in each ear.
If the reader has not done this in past, he may find it useful to
calibrate his ears to wall sound by stepping up to a live wall and
varying his wall to head distance from a couple of feet to a couple of
inches until the wall sound is firmly fixed in mind. It is usually
perceived as a kind of pressure on the ear, and will very reliably
inform the listener of his position in a space. No sound other than the
room's random noise is needed, and once the listener knows the sound of
a close wall he will find that he can walk to within a foot or so of any
live wall with his eyes closed, This is simply a case of practicing a
normal human ability into a skill. The blind do it all the time. So do
the rest of us, but unconsciously.
The writer once deadened one wall of a hallway, and sighted people veered
into it to the point of wearing out the treatment.
Having determined the acoustical center of the room, Dc is measured by
two people more or less astride the room's center starting at a distance
of 15 to 20 feet. One of them walks toward the other droning one, one,
one as the other waits for the sound of the talker's voice to suddenly
get louder. The process works both ways, with the talker's voice abruptly
going constant volume as he retreats, but the writer's experience with
several hundred students indicates that toward is easier to hear than
away, particularly in the learning stage. It is also easier to hear if
the talker walks briskly at first. He can slow down for greater accuracy
once the listener has the sound of the transition in mind.
While rare, there is one case in which it is nearly impossible to get
a decent Dc measurment, i.e. a room with a very high ceiling and a
dead floor. Short a couple of tall ladders and considerable time, it is
not possible to get to the vertical center of the room, so it's back to
plan B. (drop back 10 and punt)
The pair can also check room's frequency response by measuring the Dc
using the word six, leaning on the s and x and suppressing the vowel,
so that most of the sound is at 3 to 5 Khz. This is a pretty rough test,
but if the Dc's are wildly disparate, they indicate a room with more
absorption in the midrange than at the low end.
While Dc is a square root function of a room's global characteristics
and therefore a rather short ruler, the breakover is sufficiently abrupt
to make measurements to within a few inches quick, easy, and repeatable
by any number of talker-listener pairs. Other than the one above, the
only conditions under which it doesn't work properly are rooms in which
the Dc is greater than the wall spacing, (rare) and huge rooms which
appear to divide themselves into several acoustical areas due to
extreme losses between one wall and another.
In the first instance the room will be too small and dead to be of any
practical use, and in the second the room volume will be well in excess
of a million cubic feet. The writer knows of one at 6 million that acts
funny, but it's in no danger of being used for studio work.
Once the Dc of a room has been measured, some acoustical modifications
may seem in order. If so, a few cautionary notes should be kept in mind.
First, the Dc varies as the square root of the room absorption, so
doubling the effective treatment and thereby halving the reverberation
time will extend the Dc to only 1.4 times it's previous figure. This
presents no problem in a medium to large room, but good isolation in a
30x20x10 foot studio would require some 1550 square feet of Fiberglas
scattered over only 2400 square feet of surface area.
Even with the floor thickly carpeted, leaving a 20x10 foot control
room wall reflective would require a 75% treatment of the other walls,
and result in a reverberation time of just over one tenth second.
Some rooms are simply too small to treat for live studio work, as they
get too dead. The 6000 cubic foot case in point is probably the workable
minimum.
Second, a big studio is rarely allowed more that about one second of
reverberation time, which results in a voice Dc approaching 20 feet.
Obviously, such a room needs no help in isolation, and is best left
alone. It is a general rule in acoustics that big rooms are easy. It's
the little ones that give you the pip.
Third, professional engineers commonly do good work in bad conditions.
The writer has done any number of sessions in studios with 7 to 8 foot
Dc's which turned out well enough to sell bags of records. It's not
impossible to record in a room with poor isolation, it's just damn hard
work.
The point of proper treatment is that it allows one to get decent sound
with any reasonable setup, and it eliminates time lost in fooling around
trying to correct the room's faults.
Fourth, none of the figures given are engraved in stone. A twelve foot
Dc is better than ten, and less good than sixteen, but acoustics are
inherently inexact, and there is no sharp point at which rooms switch
from bad to good; they just glide from exasperating to no problem, with
the latter occurring and something around a 12 foot voice Dc for the
bulk of studio work.
In summary, a few minutes spent in measuring the real world acoustical
characteristics of a recording studio may reveal unnecessarily poor
isolation, and some of the treatment methods suggested herein may
improve it's general usefulness.
Since the measurement involves no expense and the treatment is designed
to make experimentation easy, these techniques offer a practical way for
a studio to confirm or optimize it's recording rooms.
THEN AGAIN, THERE'S ALWAYS THE ACOUSTICAL DESIGN PROGRAM (AD.BAS) WHICH
ALLOWS EXPERIMENTATION FOR STUDIO IMPROVEMENT OR DESIGN WITHOUT DOING
ANYTHING PHYSICAL AT ALL. MATHEMATICS ARE WONDERFUL.
LIVE ECHO CHAMBERS
Live chambers are out of style these days.
There are a number of reasons why they're not popular. Most of them are
well known and sound perfectly logical, but if there's somebody out there
who seriously thinks any artificial echo system sounds better than a live
chamber, I haven't met him.
The usual response to inquiries about live chambers is "Oh yeah, they
sound great, but......."
But; They take up too much room.
But; There's too much noise around here
But; They're not controllable like the....system.
Every one of those buts is valid.
But;
For some years, the best vocal chamber available to the mixers at United
Recorders on Sunset Avenue in Los Angeles was about seven miles away on
Fairfax Avenue.
Neat trick? Not really, just the same kind of 'phone lines that have been
used to carry the bulk of high quality audio around the country since
network radio was invented in the 20's. As a matter of fact they were so
pervasive that we still use Ma Bell's transmission line standards for
virtually all recording equipment.
They used to be called Class A Lines. The current term is Radio and TV
Broadcast Lines, and they're guaranteed out to 15 KHZ.
The cost of R/TV quality lines is wildly variable over long distances,
but for a run of a few miles two unbalanced stereo pairs would probably
double your phone bill. Not cheap, but it's a resource.
If you can get direct wiring, an old trick for monaural drive is to use
two balanced pairs, and hang the drive line on one leg of each balanced
pair. It's called a phantom line, and you get one free line for every
line you buy starting with two at the cost of a couple of transformers
per phantom. In other words 3 lines for 2 and 47 for 24.
Class A 'phone lines solve the problems of available space and noisy
environments at affordable cost even when nothing can be found in the
neighborhood, and since a live chamber is not intrinsically expensive,
the remote realie becomes a practical proposition.
The question of controlling the characteristics of a live chamber is
another matter. While the driving sound can be and usually is equalized
to produce an echo return sound that is brighter than that of the echoed
instrument(s), controlling anything much more than that is not only
cumbersome but largely a waste of effort.
The writer speaks from experience here. Bill Putnam once put a long,
thin (but very tall) vocal chamber at one side of a control room, and
hung the mike on a couple of clothesline pulleys, so he could vary the
echo attack delay. As with a set of variable acoustics mechanisms in
the studio room, the optimum setting was quickly determined, and the
variables were let alone after that.
As an aside, Bill just loved chambers, at least partly because he not
only recorded the first heavily echoed monster hit (Peg O My Heart with
the Harmonicats, still the 2nd best seller of all time) he owned it. It
was recorded on his Record Company Licence, Universal Records, and he
leased it out. Big bucks. Built a new studio with the bucks.
In another case, the writer ran up a small chamber which rang about six
seconds, and sounded wonderful on record work. Then we acquired some
jingle clients, and stuck a cheap rug in middle of the chamber which
we could unroll to pull the chamber time down to a couple of seconds
on the theory that the jingle people wouldn't be able to handle a six
second ringout at the end of a spot.
Turned out they absolutely loved the long echo, and we just downpotted
the ringout a little at the end of the spots.
Either of those mechanisms could be remoted, but proved useless in the
real world. In that same real world, the live chamber can't be varied
for much of anything else except funny eq for effect. Questionable.
Fortunately, it doesn't need much of anything else, as unlike every
synthetic system with which the writer has any experience, you can
feed anything into a live chamber and it'll come out sounding terrific.
A live chamber loves handclaps and claves, dotes on bass guitar and
timpani, probably sounds good on cannons, and damn sure sounds good on
everything else.
It's primary advantage is that since it's a real room, it sounds like
one in a way that nothing else can.
On the down side, it can't be made to sound like anything but a room,
and from that standpoint it's a specialized device.
In the case of a studio whose work involves extensive manipulation of
material to produce sound tailored to a specific purpose, a live chamber
may well be a waste of time and money.
But: For studios in the business of preserving the illusion of reality,
live chambers are indispensable. Motion picture work is a prime example
of that kind of thing, and the film/TV people are pretty hard nosed about
echo. Consider "ET" done on a spring chamber.
Preserving the illusion, or "getting a good picture" of the band is the
major part of music recording whether the material is extensively over-
dubbed or done as live as possible, and physical chambers contribute a
great deal to the illusion.
Oddly enough, they are very helpful in the case of overdubs, as their
uniquely uniform response to all instruments yields a consistent
acoustical environment to everything fed into them, with the result that
they tend to merge overdubs into the overall sound.
You'd never know the dubs weren't part of the original session, especially
if you put a trace of live echo on the tracks you're overdubbing.
In fact, a little live echo on a CD absolutly transforms the sound.
So there's a case to be made for a live chamber, and there's a way to
get it off the premises.
The next logical step involves construction and setup.
To the surprise of absolutely nobody, a live chamber is a very live room.
Actually, it's a totally live room, which makes construction a little
different than for normal rooms.
What's required is walls that neither absorb sound nor drumhead when
driven by sound. In short, masonry.
Don't panic. Masonry's cheap. Specifically, concrete block walls are cheap.
The ideal venue for a chamber is a nice quiet basement with a poured
concrete floor slab and a concrete ceiling. Concerning the ceiling, fat
chance, but it's not essential.
A chamber needs about 10 feet to handle low frequencies, but only in two
dimensions, so ceiling height is not critical. 10 x 12 x 8 to 9 feet works
nicely. A little bigger is a little better, but it's best not to get
carried away. While chambers get longer as they get bigger, even small
rooms will yield several seconds of echo time, and very large ones tend
to go somewhat muddy because of air absorption at high frequencies. It
comes down to a matter of volume, and 800 to 1600 cubic feet appears to
be optimum.
Since it is the function of a chamber is to generate standing waves, the
normal rules of acoustics don't apply. For that reason the actual shape
of the room is immaterial. I recall one that was built into the space left
under a staircase. It was short, but the sound was first rate. Square,
cubical, triangular and round rooms all work equally well, except for
placing equipment. Assuming stereo, that could get pretty weird in a
triangular space.
If a concrete ceiling is not available, 1 inch Lamiboard (a heavy form of
particle board at 200 pounds a sheet) will do, as will sandbagged solid
2 x 4's on edge. The primary thing is to prevent vibration, which eats
energy and therefore cuts down the chamber time.
Concrete floor slabs wick up moisture from the ground, so the floor slab
must be waterproofed or the chamber will be damp forever. If there's a
question of ground moisture and/or wicking, lay a couple of sheets of
plastic food wrap on the slab for a day and see how much moisture
accumulates on the underside. You might be surprised.
A proper door in a chamber is hellish expensive, and not really needed.
A more practical approach is a 3 foot square hatch with a door made of
2 inches of particle board. Glue up two sheets of one inch board and use
bolts to mount the hardware. Forget screws. They won't hold. The hatch
should be airtight to keep outside sound out of the chamber unless it's
in a dead quiet area. If it's really tight, you can get away with an
amazing amount of outside noise. This is, after all, a soundproof room
with the mikes normally sloped off below 200 HZ. The only time I've had
noise problems with a chamber was an oversized item that sat about 100
yards off lake Michigan. Storms caused enough ground vibration so that
we had to mount the thing up on bridge pads.
With walls and ceiling in place, waterproof the inside with one of the
various masonry waterproofing paints to force the masonry to dry to the
outside, and finish the inside with Portland plaster.
That's the stuff used in bathrooms you can't drive a nail into, because
it's not really plaster. If it were, the shower steam would take it out.
Portland plaster is actually fine grained concrete, and it's hard as rock.
It is also the equivalent of terrazzo or marble, with virtually no sound
absorption at all.
Given this construction and finish, the chamber should come up at ten to
twelve seconds inside, yielding about half that on record. Keeping in mind
that it's easy to shorten an existing room but very difficult to lengthen
one, go the whole nine yards and get the maximum ring for starters.
Equipment; Neither speakers nor mikes are critical for a chamber, although
the mike amplifiers had better be as quiet as possible since the mikes are
working at levels down to no sound at all. The speakers and amps should be
capable of handling 100 watts or more, partly because of the top end
equalization normally set into the driver line, and partly because the
chamber's signal to noise ratio depends on your being able to drive it to
fairly high levels. If you can put 110 Db SPL in the chamber you're not
likely to hear anything anything with no signal, as the undriven room will
be at 35 Db or so and that's a 75 Db S/N ratio. NoNoise is about 72.
One very special bit of equipment is a 100 watt light bulb with a diode
button under it. Keeps the chamber warm and dry.
Setup; Nothing complicated here. Stick a speaker in each corner, and hang
a mike about 7 feet off each one.
If you want a more solid stereo center (and the chamber will supply one)
put the speaker-mike pairs closer together rather than increasing the
speaker to mike distances. Seven to eight feet is optimum.
In use, crossing the returns (left sent to right return) improves
instrumental clarity a bit, and makes the overall sound even better.
Finally, a live chamber will do a lot for the sound of most studios,
doesn't cost as much as might be thought, and if there's no room on or
near the premises, can be remoted to any reasonably quiet space available
using high quality telephone lines. The competitive advantage is
undeniable, and the project is worth consideration.
Label:
Studio Layouts
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